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Dan
Dodge Dakota
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11/10/2004
11:50:45

Subject: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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'93 5.2L Dakota CC. I discovered this while I was trying to find a no spark, fuel or power to the Engine PCM. About 12 inches away from the fuse/relay box under the hood, there was a solder splice connection. This connection is voltage supply from the ignition switch to the relay box. It splices together three relays to the ignition switch key on position. The Auto start/shutdown relay, fuel pump and power to the PCM. With the key on, power will be present at the relays but it needs this activation voltage from the ignition switch to power the relays. I checked everything until I finally started pulling tape off the harness and found this connection. It was a solder joint right from the factory. Four wires coming together, soldered and wrapped with electrical tape. The splice had corroded and shorted out. When this happens the truck will do nothing but crank over. The check engine light will not turn on, or it will flicker. If the truck dies and the check engine light does not turn on with key on, then the PCM is not powering up. I recommend you check for this splice in every '93 and redo the connection.



Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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11/10/2004
14:54:55

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Yeah, that is a pretty common problem. I think all the GenII trucks are subject to that issue. Seen it before. Getting more common now as the trucks get older.



Woody
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11/15/2004
09:43:37

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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It happened on my '94 3.9,Fixed it,& it runs fine now.



Woodrow
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2/12/2005
00:01:05

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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happen to my 93 at the same time the water pump took a crap....... Shoulda looked here first...Now I have an extra fuel pump.



John A
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2/12/2005
06:53:58

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Wondering if this could have something to do with my headlight switch i am on my 3rd one keeps burning up seems every two years now



T-racy
Dodge Dakota
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2/13/2005
12:41:52

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Apparently the early 90's were bad about getting bad connecitions in the harness and bulkhead connector. I bought a 93 new and it for 12 yrs. (Just sold it a week ago). Had at least 6 electrical problems. All were bad solder connections or corroded connectors.

John A. anything is possible but I doubt this problem would affect your light switch. Problem that can cause this are, running high intensity light bulbs that draw more current than the switch can handle, doing the mod of wiring both low and high beams together so when the lights are on high both low and high beams are on. This also draws more current than the switch is rated at. Lastly what brand of switchs are you using? Cheapo Autozone or a good quality OEM.



BStumm
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7/09/2006
18:19:34

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Could someone give me a little more detail in where to locate this splice? Been having what I believe is exactly same issue. Last summer I had a no spark no gas problem that I finally identified as a bad Auto Shutdown Relay. Problem went away but now its back but slightly different. This time the check engine light disappears as noted above. When it happens I pull to side of road and turn ignition to on (not start) every min or two until check engine light comes on. If on truck starts, if not truck just cranks and cranks. My truck is a 92 with 5.2L engine. I know where the relay box is but there are two wire bundles coming from it and both are taped. Heck most of the wire bundles are electrical taped under the hood which I found odd. I thought someone had done that aftermarket but I guess its a factory deal???? Seems odd they didn't use other wire bundle products... Anyway, do I just start removing tape starting at relay box and work back or is there an easier way to locate it? Would rather not remove too much of the electrical tape if I dont have too...



Dan
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7/09/2006
22:01:57

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Yes, you are going to have to remove the tape covering the wiring harness. It is the group of wires that leads to the junction block on the firewall. That way you can identify all the wires, and to what relays they go to. I didn't have a solder gun hot enough to solder all the wires together. So I spliced in a short piece of wire and used two wire nuts. I have not had a problem with the connection since I did it back in Nov. 2004. Good Luck



BStumm
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7/10/2006
18:51:47

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Truck died and wont restart at all today while leaving work for lunch.

So I see a few different solder joint wire groups. First I found a group of red wires. one wire with white stripe and three with orange stripe. Cut out the solder joint and wirenut with short jumper wire. Did not fix. dont have chiltons with me but if I remember right its terminal 3 that is power for PCM. That wire is red with white stripe but the joint I repaired had red wire with orange stripe leading off towards PCM. I've also found a group of blue wires, the blue wires seem to go to the relays, is that the joint? What color were the wires you fixed?



Dan
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7/11/2006
08:02:35

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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I'm at work right now. I can't remember the color of the wires. The wires I repaired went to the relays for Auto/Shutdown, fuel pump, and PCM power turn on. If I remember correctly,the power should always be present at the relay. The bad splice joint circuit is the voltage from the ignition switch that activates the relays. I have a Chiltons at home that I can look at to refresh my memory. Check back after 5:00pm today.



BStumm
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7/11/2006
21:39:06

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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I managed to get the truck to start shortly after yesterdays post. Not sure if its related to my attempted repair on the group of red wires with white or orange stipe. The blue wires and the red wires both seem to lead to the ASD and Fuel relays. So its got to be one or the other. The splice on the red wires was located along the firewall approximately half way between the center of firewall and the drivers edge of firewall (so quarter way across firewall starting from driver side). The blue wire solder splice is located in front (towards radiator) of the relay/fuse box. The blue wires have 12V present all the time it seems. The red wires seem to have approx. a half a volt present with key on. Again... so far I've only repaired the red splice. I've also located a group very close to the blue wire splice that is made up of one black wire with three wires that are either light grey or white. There is a short section of the wire harness that runs underneath the relay box that I've not unwrapped yet. On my 92 the wire bundle comes out of the relay/fuse box on the front (radiator side) and the wraps and runs underneat the relay/fuse box up to firewall and across to the PCM which is on the passenger side. I see no junction box which takes any of these wires inside the cab unless you refer to a rubber boot on the firewall. Underneath the relay/fuse box is a T where a few of the wires head into a boot that seems to go into the cab. Maybe this might better help you remember the approx location of the splice since there seems to be at least 3 in that wire harness. I should also meantion the blue wires are much thicker gauge wires than the red ones I repaired. red wires were approx 20 gauge while the blue must be like 14 or so.



BStumm
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7/11/2006
21:45:39

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Should add...

After posting saying the red wire wirenut repair job didn't work I took wire nuts off and jumper wire out and re-did it again to make sure I didn't just have a bad wirenut connection. While redoing it I heard some clicking like various sensors being activated key was on because I also was checking for voltage present on various lines and forgot to turn key back off after. After hearing this clicking I went back to cab turned key off then back on and sure enough the check engine light was present and the truck started. It's not died again since but the condition is very intermittent so only time will tell. I have to admit though that I'm tempted to repair all the joints I've already seen. Might do that this weekend. I re-wrapped the bundle but left the splice points outside the main bundle for a few inches each side and wrapped them seperate.



Dan
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7/12/2006
06:45:32

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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I hope you have found the problem. I went through ordering a new/used PCM before I finally found the bad wire splice. Sorry I didn't have time yesterday to look in my Chiltons manual and send a reply. I would definitely fix all the other splice points you found. You never know how good they are. My first PCM was damaged because of the intermittent shorting out of the connection. But make sure you do all your repairs with the neg. battery ground disconnected.



BStumm
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7/12/2006
13:52:15

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Ok so I drive about 3 hours a day on average and the stalling out problem was happening to me every 2-3 days roughly. For this intermittent problem to occur while driving every 2-3 days I imagine it was also occuring (and recovering) at other times while the vehicle was not in use. I think that is a fair assumption. So the other day after finally getting it running so I could go home from work I decided to start the truck 50 times to clear the code 12 from the computer. My thinking here is that it would help me determine if the problem is gone. Even if the PCM lost power while parked I can use the key on-off-on-off-on trick to read the codes and see if its still happening. Its been about 38 hours so far and no codes are set. So I think it probably was the red wires (one with white stripe, three with orange stripe) that fixed it. Thats the only solder joint I've repaired so far. I'll keep an eye on it a few more days to see if it comes back.

Hopefully this helps the next guy locat the correct corroded solder joint quicker than I did.

To recap, the red wire solder joint I repaired is located along the firewall inside the wire harness. Its fairly close to the steering column. not far after the wire bundle turns the corner to head across the firewall. At least on a 92 Dak LE club cub, 318 auto.



BStumm
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7/15/2006
12:35:39

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Well seems thats not the fix. Truck died on me Fri morn on the freeway. I had wanted to wait til today to make the other wire splice repairs but I made them on the side of the road instead. That doesn't seem to be the answer either as it died on me many times coming back home from work yesterday. Being a guy and not knowing what else to do I gave the metal box that houses the computer a firm whack with my hand and to my surprise I heard lots of clicking and other noises that must have been the various sensors and what not re-initializing so it seems there must be a short either at the connector for the PCM or internal to the PCM itself. Think I'll open the PCM up this morning and investigate further. Maybe there is a bad solder joint inside that I can repair. Anyone know what a new or used PCM costs these days?



BStumm
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7/15/2006
14:41:57

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Well seems the computer is shot and attempting a self repair would not be easy. I work in the electronics industry but this circuit board has a conformal coating over it to protect from moisture. The coating is like silicone or a potting compound. Located a computer in stock at NAPA for $189 exchange. They need a number off the module to get you the right one. To save others the trouble... take the front cover off (5 star screws) and then rub the grim off of the rubber coating near the bottom corner and through the clear coating you can read a number on the circuit board that starts with 56027XXX where XXX is specific to engine, trans, etc.



BStumm
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7/16/2006
16:31:38

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Hey Dan,

When you swapped computers did you have to do anything to the new computer? I changed mine and my intermittent power loss / no check engine light seems to be gone now but the truck runs like crap. The number from the computer was checked and new has same (56027141). Idles fine, revs fine in park but under load it stumbles, backfires, misses etc. Between 1500 - 2300 RPMs roughtly while accellerating it runs real bad. Once at speed the truck runs fine and if you gun it its fine, only if you accellerate normally from stop to say 35mph does it do this. Do I need to go to the dodge dealer and have them program the computer specific to my truck or something?



Dan
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7/20/2006
06:29:31

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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When I replaced my computer I didn't have to have anything reprogramed or checked out by a dealer or service center.



Bryan
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3/03/2007
02:48:23

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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I have a 93 dodge extended cab 5.2 auto. When i turn the key on it blows the ignition fuse as soon as the key hits run. I have the wiring harness out of the truck thats all i could figure it was. I was trying to buy one and couldnt find it. Then i decided to completely rewire the sodder joints they have 3 or 4 in them. when this problem happens did you have a problem with no crank no fire no fuel? I had bought the truck this way and the guy got tired of it and have been fighting it for a while now. Also did those wires have power to each of them or not when they arent soddered or do they recieve power from the wire that leads out of the cab? The blue wire from the cab was what was blowing the fuse it had power and the others didnt?
Thanks
Bryan



Dan
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3/07/2007
19:45:04

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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Boy it's been a long time since I worked on this problem. Can you read My very first posting? My truck would always crank over but not start or fire the ignition. I never blew a fuse. The wire I mention supplied the power to activate the relays for run/start, PCM power-on and fuel pump. Once the key is turned on the wire has voltage present. I don't remember if the wire was blue. I will have to check my Chiltons manual. I don't know where inline the fuse is that you mentioned is blowing. If you are blowing a fuse that fast, you have something directly shorted to ground. I will help you if I can.



lori brown
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11/07/2009
08:23:54

RE: Bad Factory '93 Wiring Harness Splice
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everytime i replace the auto shut off fuse it blow and truck will not start. have spent alot of money any ideas



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