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20:42:18 - 05/30/2024
General Dakota Board
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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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11/09/2004
15:42:22
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 Subject: another bj question
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BALL JOINT, that is.
Ok, quickly, can I just replace the upper ball joints, or is it better to do both upper and lower at the same time? And... should I do both sides (left and right) at the same time or just the offending one? I seem to have a problem with just the right upper ball joint where the wheel can move about 1/16th of an inch when its off the ground (top of wheel) but the driver's side doesnt move at all.
To save me money, and who cant relate, just changing the one would be my preference.
any suggestions?
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Sneezer
Dodge Dakota
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11/09/2004
16:20:04
|  RE: another bj question
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The ideal solution would be to put new ones in all the way around. I think you would be OK by replacing the bad one, but if the others are slightly worn or just starting to fail, they may put undue stress on the new one causing it to wear out quicker than you would like.
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Tony
Dodge Dakota
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11/09/2004
16:54:42
|  RE: another bj question
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Best to do things in pairs when working on a car - i.e. front brakes, wheel bearings, etc.
So if your short on $$$ replace both uppers - but given this is the dodge dakota we're talking about, replace all 4! The lowers need to be pressed out, so it will be more involved doing that.
At 85,000 miles, all 4 joints are bad on my truck, so the whole front end is getting refurbished.
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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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11/09/2004
18:08:41
|  RE: another bj question
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that's what I figured. Due to budget constraints, I will do the one first, and come the new year, do the second one. Luckily I have a heated garage to work in (is brr up here in Canada right now)
thanks guys for you input, its always welcome!
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Blackdog
Dodge Dakota
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11/10/2004
10:03:02
| RE: another bj question
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OK. The problem here is that a worn ball joint will (not "may" or "could" or "probably" or "might") put the hurt on other suspension and steering parts. My pro advice is do four balljoints, replace control arm bushings, shocks, inspect sway bar bushings, pitman, idler, and tierod ends (I bet they are shot). Plan on getting an alignment after repairs. While you're in there, inspect wheel hubs and cv-joints if you are 4x4. Turn the rotors and do the brakes if needed. Damage could also cup your tires. Rotate and balance as needed.
The problem with replacing one balljoint is that that one new balljoint will fail because of the wear and damage from the worn out balljoint you took out. There is a huge benefit with doing this the right way the first time. The truck will handle like a sports truck, and you won't have to go back in and replace the new ball joint and old ones later, which will be more worn and dangerous. This job requires you to remove the knuckle at least, and may mean removing the control arm and other parts. Why do it all over again down the road to finish the job and then find the new balljoint wore out?
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greyDak
Dodge Dakota
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11/10/2004
16:28:19
| RE: another bj question
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Blackdog, quite right! I am looking closer now at the hub (the expensive sealed unit that I replaced about 2 years ago). I agree about the ball joints, although due to bugetary constraints I will need to be selective. The control arm bushings are going to have to wait, but I agree about the improved handling (although I cant complain about my little Dak, it rides like a car). My figuring is that if I replace the upper ball joints (assuming the hub is ok) then most of the "grunt work" is done and if I need to change them again in the future, it will be an easier task of unbolting the three bolts. I am surfing here, so give me some slack. Again, and I think I speak for a lot of people out there, money is the determining factor here (in Canada, the TRW ball joints - no yelling please - are around $80 plus tax and the Moog are around $110 plus tax - yeah, I know, I thought they stayed on by themselves) Lowers are about the same price give or take.
On a positive note, all are currently available and will be in on Friday!
thanks everyone for your input, its too bad we all dont have that limitless bag o' cash like they do on "Trucks!"
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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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11/11/2004
10:05:03
| RE: another bj question
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well, I spent a few hours last night with the trouble light, a 4 foot crow bar and my handy Haynes manual. I checked very closely the upper and lower ball joints, and the sealed hub/bearing to find that all are well inside spec. I even dragged the neighborhood mechanic over and asked for his opinion, and he agreed that the ball joints and hubs are fine and dont need to be services. The answer to the problem is "alignment". I got caught up with the whole ball joint issue that permiates this (and other) websites and figured that was the problem. The moral of the story: always check closely and get a second opinion. Today I will get a front end alignment and put the money for the ball joints aside for something more fun in the spring!
thanks everyone for your input. All of it was useful and not in vain.
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greyDAK
Dodge Dakota
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11/15/2004
08:09:32
|  RE: another bj question
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WITH APPOLOGIES, but I was 100% wrong with my diagnosis. I wound up replacing all four ball joints.
But on the good side:
1) I now know how to check ball joints on a Dakota
2) I can now remove uppers and lowers with a grinder, a drill, a Drill Doctor, a handfull of bits from 1/8 to 3/8 (very important step), a jack and jack-stand and a big hammer.
3) I can now install and torque uppers and lowers so that the truck drives like a car.
Yes, those who said to change them all were SOOO right, I bow to your advanced knowledge. I feel so good that I saved myself about $400 in labour charges (yep, they quoted me about $700 for all four - rip off). I didnt buy the Moogs, but did get TRW (with the grease nipple in the lowers). Now before everybody flames me, it was a cost thing. Also, I figure if they wear out while I still own the truck, the hard part of drilling out the rivets is already done, and all I will need to to is unbolt the rotten basterts.
A special thanks to Canadian Tire for loaning me a pickle fork. So very important, but so under-appreciated.
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